🔗 Share this article

Whenever curating a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee familiar high-end establishments. However, situated prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying corner of north London.

A Surprise Honour

The compact Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This honour has made the family completely shocked.

“I am utterly surprised,” says the family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that led to their modest restaurant securing such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its original feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the fare, and this eatery more than excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent quality.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate beyond its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic triumph.